Care of Mice
These are my facts, opinions and belief's about mouse care.
This is how I roll.
Feed
I get my lab blocks from Star Milling here in California. They have 3 lab block formulas and will ship to dealers within the U.S. I pay about $25 for 50lb bags and use their basic diet but in future might try the others as needed. My mice all like this food and look and feel good eating it as their daily diet.
SAFE
apple (no seeds)
apricot
asparagus
avocado (no skin or pit)
banana
barley
basil
bell pepper
blackberries
blueberries
bran flakes
brown rice
buckwheat
butternut squash
cantaloupe
carrots
cauliflower
cheerios (original or whole grain)
cherries (no pit)
chia seeds
chicken (cooked white meat)
chickweed
coconut
corn
couscous
cilantro
clover
cranberries
crickets
cucumber
dandelion leaves
dates
dill
dragon fruit
egg (cooked)
eggplant
endive
flax seed
gerber graduate puffs
grapes (peeled)
grass (kinds sold for pets)
greens
green beans
guava
hay (*parasite risk)
hemp seeds
honeydew
kale
kiwi
lettuce (darker varieties best)
mealworms
millet
mushrooms (human edible)
nasturtiums blooms
oats (plain)
pansy flowers
papaya
pasta (whole grain)
parsley
peaches
peas
pears
plum
popcorn (plain)
potato (cooked)
pretzels (unsalted)
puffed rice (plain)
pumpkin seeds
quinoa
radish
raspberries
rice
rose hips
rose petals
rye
salmon
spinach
squash
squash blossoms
strawberries
sweet potato (cooked)
thyme
tilapia
toast (whole grain)
tuna
turnip
turkey (cooked)
walnuts
watercress
watermelon
wheat
zucchini
AVOID
celery
citrus
chamomile
dairy
garlic
hibiscus
hot peppers
mango
mint
mulberry
onions
petunia
raisins
raw potatoes
raw beans
red meat
skins
soy
spices
strawberry tops
tomatoes
RARELY (be careful with allergies)
peanuts
peanut butter
sunflower seeds
Bedding
I use only Aspen wood shavings. All forms of paper bedding do nothing to combat odor, merely absorb and hold it. Pine and Cedar shavings are extremely dangerous for all small animals as the phenols in these woods literally burn the lungs, there is evidence that this is even a health concern for humans. I have never tried corn cob bedding. I can always find Aspen and it has always kept my mouse environments clean and mice healthy.
Toys
Seriously, is there anything more fun in the whole world? Maybe if there is still some paper on the roll!
I have a big collection of cardboard tubes thanks to my many donators. Each cage gets one or two at each cleaning. I do have lots of wheels, I even have one of those little UFO thingys that certain mice enjoy endlessly. The wheels get a lot of use, mostly as restrooms, but I try to keep up with cleaning them.
Cleaning
It's all about water, bleach and a good rag. I put all cages and toys out in water to soak for an hour, then do any needed wiping and scrubbing, spray with a 3% bleach solution, rinse again and allow to dry in the sun to kill off some more germs. It's not hard.
This document provides an overview of the structure and responsibilities of those who support the animals care and use program at Johns Hopkins.
The Animal Care and Use Program at Johns Hopkins in University-wide program. It is comprised of multiple components, which cover animal housing and care, veterinary medical care, facilities management, training, occupational health, and assurance of compliance with federal and state laws and policies that govern use of animals in research and teaching. In general, the National Research Council's Guide to the Care and Use of Laboratory Animals serves as the primary source for standards for the Johns Hopkins Animal Care and Use Program.
Click the Logo above for this wonderful rodent care website
Housing
I use a variety of containment systems. For one mouse, such as a stud on break between breedings, I will go as small as a 12 quart shoe box style container with wire top. For a pair of does with big baby bellies I go for the larger wire cages that allow lots of air circulation and freedom to storm around in frustration. I have some does that are insecure with their babies so I allow them a private tub style enclosure with wire top. I always give cardboard tubes for hiding, chewing and playing. I always give a clean water bottle and if the amount in the bottle is not down a bit at each check I put a second bottle and monitor closely. I enjoy the smaller hamster cages with solid plastic bottoms and wire around the middle. They come with wheels, hides, bottles etc. and give young mice great stimulation. I change out my mice environments often to give them stimulation and introduce them to new germs in effort to keep their immune system stronger than mice in a sterile or laboratory condition. Mice in these environments tend to live about a year. Mice subjected to more variety of germs, like mine, tend to live about 3 years. Mice living in filth tend to live about 5 years. I don't let my cages get dirty, but I do appreciate opportunities for a change in their environment that allows them to swap germs and develop strong immune systems.
Veterinary Care
So glad I hardly need anything in my first aid kit for mice. Still, the point is to be ready. I keep Iodine solution on hand for wounds that need disinfecting. I keep Fenbendazole pellets for any chance of worms. I keep liquid Ivermectin in case of mites or lice. I keep tetracycline as my antibiotic of choice in case of infection or respiratory distress. The veterinarian I used to work for told me that with any small animal you should always have band-aids, antibiotic ointment and peroxide available. I can think of a lot of situations that apply so I have those also. If a bad situation arose I have no good rodent vets near me. The web page below would be my final option.